Bristol's Garden Vineyards: Foot-Stomping Fruit in City Spaces
Every 20 minutes or so, an older diesel railway carriage arrives at a graffiti-covered station. Nearby, a police siren pierces the almost continuous traffic drone. Daily travelers rush by collapsing, ivy-covered garden fences as storm clouds form.
This is maybe the least likely spot you anticipate to find a perfectly formed vineyard. But one local grower has cultivated four dozen established plants heavy with round purplish berries on a sprawling allotment situated between a row of 1930s houses and a commuter railway just above the city downtown.
"I've seen people hiding illegal substances or other items in the shrubbery," says Bayliss-Smith. "But you simply continue ... and continue caring for your grapevines."
The cameraman, forty-six, a filmmaker who also has a kombucha drinks business, is among several local vintner. He's organized a informal group of cultivators who make vintage from several hidden city grape gardens nestled in back gardens and allotments across Bristol. The project is too clandestine to have an formal title yet, but the collective's messaging chat is called Vineyard Dreams.
City Wine Gardens Around the Globe
So far, the grower's plot is the only one listed in the City Vineyard Network's upcoming world atlas, which includes more famous city vineyards such as the eighteen hundred plants on the hillsides of Paris's historic artistic district area and over three thousand grapevines overlooking and within Turin. The Italian-based non-profit association is at the vanguard of a movement reviving city vineyards in traditional winemaking countries, but has discovered them all over the world, including cities in Japan, South Asia and Uzbekistan.
"Vineyards help urban areas stay greener and more diverse. These spaces protect open space from construction by establishing long-term, yielding farming plots within cities," explains the association's president.
Like all wines, those produced in cities are a result of the soils the plants thrive in, the unpredictability of the weather and the individuals who care for the grapes. "A bottle of wine represents the charm, community, environment and history of a urban center," notes the spokesperson.
Unknown Eastern European Grapes
Back in Bristol, Bayliss-Smith is in a race against time to gather the vines he grew from a cutting abandoned in his garden by a Polish family. Should the precipitation arrives, then the birds may seize their chance to attack again. "Here we have the enigmatic Eastern European grape," he says, as he removes bruised and mouldy grapes from the glistering bunches. "We don't really know their exact classification, but they are certainly hardy. In contrast to premium grapes – Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and additional renowned French grapes – you don't have to spray them with chemicals ... this is possibly a special variety that was bred by the Soviets."
Collective Activities Across Bristol
The other members of the collective are additionally taking advantage of sunny interludes between bursts of autumn rain. On the terrace with views of Bristol's glistening harbour, where historic trading ships once floated with barrels of vintage from Europe and Spain, Katy Grant is harvesting her dark berries from about 50 plants. "I love the smell of these vines. It is so reminiscent," she remarks, pausing with a basket of fruit slung over her shoulder. "It's the scent of southern France when you roll down the car windows on vacation."
The humanitarian worker, fifty-two, who has spent over 20 years working for humanitarian organizations in war-torn regions, unexpectedly inherited the vineyard when she moved back to the UK from East Africa with her family in 2018. She felt an strong responsibility to maintain the vines in the yard of their recently acquired property. "This vineyard has already endured multiple proprietors," she says. "I deeply appreciate the concept of natural stewardship – of handing this down to someone else so they continue producing from the soil."
Terraced Vineyards and Natural Production
Nearby, the final two members of the group are busily laboring on the steep inclines of Avon Gorge. One filmmaker has cultivated more than 150 plants situated on ledges in her expansive property, which tumbles down towards the muddy River Avon. "People are always surprised," she notes, indicating the interwoven vineyard. "It's astonishing to them they can see grapevine lines in a city street."
Currently, Scofield, sixty, is harvesting clusters of dusty purple Rondo grapes from rows of vines arranged along the cliff-side with the help of her child, her family member. The conservationist, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has contributed to streaming service's Great National Parks series and BBC Two's gardening shows, was inspired to plant grapes after observing her neighbor's vines. She's discovered that hobbyists can produce interesting, pleasurable natural wine, which can sell for more than seven pounds a glass in the increasing quantity of wine bars focusing on minimal-intervention vintages. "It's just incredibly satisfying that you can actually make quality, natural wine," she says. "It is quite on trend, but in reality it's resurrecting an old way of making wine."
"During foot-stomping the fruit, all the natural microorganisms are released from the skins and enter the juice," explains Scofield, partially submerged in a bucket of tiny stems, seeds and red liquid. "This represents how vintages were made traditionally, but commercial producers introduce sulphur [dioxide] to eliminate the natural cultures and then add a commercially produced culture."
Difficult Environments and Inventive Approaches
In the immediate vicinity active senior Bob Reeve, who motivated his neighbor to establish her grapevines, has assembled his companions to harvest white wine varieties from the 100 vines he has laid out neatly across two terraces. Reeve, a northern English physical education instructor who taught at Bristol University developed a passion for wine on regular visits to France. However it is a difficult task to cultivate Chardonnay grapes in the dampness of the gorge, with cooling tides sweeping in and out from the Bristol Channel. "I aimed to make French-style vintages in this location, which is somewhat ambitious," admits Reeve with amusement. "Chardonnay is slow-maturing and very sensitive to mildew."
"I wanted to make European-style vintages here, which is a bit bonkers"
The unpredictable local weather is not the sole problem faced by winegrowers. The gardener has had to erect a fence on